Despite the tiring walks from the previous days, I was still excited for this day trip because I would be going back to Ise Jingu.
During my previous visit, there were few people around because it was a weekday and we reached the place at around 8AM (read it here). But this time, it was a Sunday and already 10AM so there was a huge crowd of locals already.
Despite the tiring walks from the previous days, I was still
excited for this day trip because I would be going back to Ise Jingu.
NOVEMBER 25, 2018
From Kintetsu Nagoya Station, it was about an hour and a
half trip to Ujiyamada Station. And then from Ujiyamada, I rode a bus going to
Ise Jingu (Geku) for less than 10 minutes.
During my previous visit, there were few people around because it was a weekday and we reached the place at around 8AM (read it here). But this time, it was a Sunday and already 10AM so there was a huge crowd of locals already.
GEKU (Outer Shrine) of Ise Jingu was my first stop and this shrine is dedicated to Toyouke Omikami, deity of three essentials of human life: cloth, food and shelter.
After visiting the small shrine at the top of the small hill in Geku, I went back to the bus stop to go to Naiku.
Weekend bus time table from Geku-mae
Weekend bus time table from Naiku-mae
NAIKU (Inner Shrine)
was even more crowded than Geku. I wasn’t able to take a picture of Ujibashi Bridge but good thing I
already have one from the previous trip.
Wooden stands at one side of Ujibashi Bridge will be used in 2033 when Shikinen Sengu will be celebrated – a ceremony wherein all shrine buildings and main bridges in Ise Jingu are rebuilt every 20 years. Interestingly, the wood they use are sourced from trees grown within the shrine grounds. Shikinen Sengu happens every 20 years and the last time it has been held was in 2013. Through rebuilding, it is said that the power of the deity (Amaterasu-Omikami) is renewed.
Remember to walk along the side of the road because the center aisle is believed to be for deities only. Notice how most locals stay on the side.
When entering shrines and temples in Japan, temizu should be done to cleanse the mind and body as their gods are believed to hate impurity. In Naiku, aside from the common method of using a small wooden dipper, one option is to go to Isuzugawa (Isuzu River) to wash hands and rinse your mouth.
Seeing Naiku in autumn season was another treat – Isuzugawa was a nice spot to see trees in autumn colors.
The most crowded area in Naiku was Shogu, which is the main palace dedicated to Amaterasu-Omikami, Shinto’s most venerated deity. It is believed that her sacred mirror is enshrined inside the palace. Most people are not allowed to enter the inside of the palace but certain powerful people are given special exemptions.
Tall cedar tree with its base being touched by people for prayers
After going around a bit more, we decided to leave the
temple just in time for the bus going back to Ujiyamada Station.
A glimpse of Ujibashi Bridge
Ise Jingu will always one of my favorite places in Japan. I like the crunch sound whenever the sole of my shoes press on the pebbles, the bright rays of sunshine that are able to pass through spaces in between trees, and that unexplainable feeling of tranquillity in this place. I will definitely return there whenever possible during my future Japan trips!
Ever heard of sakura blooming during autumn? Well, that is not a fantasy because there is a place in Japan where this happens. The town is called Obara, which is popular for shikizakura (四季桜 four-season cherry blossoms), and not too far from Nagoya.
My destination for this trip was the Senmi Shikizakura no Sato — farther than the more popular Obara Fureai Park.
Ever heard of sakura blooming during
autumn? Well, that is not a fantasy because there is a place in Japan where
this happens. The town is called OBARA,
which is popular for shikizakura (四季桜 four-season cherry blossoms), and not too far from Nagoya.
NOVEMBER 23, 2018
From Fushimi Station, the train ride to
Toyotashi Station was about an hour. I bought food for breakfast but wasn’t
able to eat it because there was a long line already at Bus Stop 1. It turned
out to be the bus bound for Obara Fureai Park, the more popular spot for shikizakura. My
destination was SENMI SHIKIZAKURA NO
SATO, which was farther than the park.
I rode the bus with Kaminigi as the last stop, and the 1-hour ride became 1.5 hours due to traffic congestion in the Obara Fureai Park area. It was an interesting ride because there were more than five other Filipinos in the same bus. They were MA students who had no classes that day, and we ended up chatting for some time.
When the bus arrived at the Kaminigi stop, there was no English sign where to go to reach Senmi Shikizakura no Sato so I decided to follow where the locals were heading. The walk was about 10 minutes and even before reaching the park, I already saw a few shikizakura trees.
Upon reaching the highway, there were even more shikizakura so it was a sign that I was very near my destination. I crossed the road and then saw this:
Yay, finally!
Even at the base of Senmi Shikizakura no Sato, the landscape was so scenic that you would not be able to resist taking lots of pictures. Imagine seeing autumn and spring colors mixing together!
Red and pink representing two seasons
Close up shot of shikizakura
Autumn colors were present everywhere. 😍
I thought that it was just a big area with some stairs or slopes. What I didn’t know was that I need to do a long uphill climb to go around the whole park. So, uhm, I was wearing loafers… Hence, most of the time, I had to be really careful in walking otherwise I might roll down the slope. Haha!
Start of the uphill trail
But, all those slope challenges were worth it because I got to see shikizakura flowers up close. Shikizakura flowers are quite small compared to the spring sakura one. Still, that does not make them less beautiful.
Some other sights I enjoyed:
The only gingko tree I saw in the area
Spring and Autumn together
After making sure that I already covered
all possible trails, I started my descent. Akala
mo naman nag-hike nang bongga. Haha!
I was so hungry by the time I reached the food stalls and dining area. I checked if there was anything interesting but all stalls had long lines so I decided to just eat the onigiri we bought earlier. Before finding a spot though, I smelled a really nice citrus fragrance nearby and found locals eating a small yellow fruit. I decided to buy one since it was just ¥50 per piece.
Tuna mayo onigiri
Super sour yuzu
After finishing my onigiri, I removed half
of the peel of the fruit I bought. It was so juicy that my hands had juice
drops everywhere. I took my first bite… and my face couldn’t help but twitch
because of the sourness. I said out loud, “Ang asim!!!”. The group of four obaasans
(grandmas) across the table laughed and told me “Suppai!!!” (sour). They were
talking to me in Japanese and from the little I understood, they told me that the
fruit was yuzu and it was really
sour during this season. They told me “Gambatte!” (good luck) when I reached
for my 2nd and 3rd slices. I responded to them with my
basic Japanese skills – good thing they understood me saying thank you for
cheering me and that the yuzu was really not sweet. They said goodbye as I was
eating my 4th slice… and after that, I decided to give up on the
yuzu.
While putting the yuzu in the plastic bag,
an obaasan from another table approached me and gave me wet wipes. Such a sweet
gesture! I thanked her in Japanese and gave her a big smile as I wiped my hands
clean from the yuzu juice.
I think I am really a magnet of ojiisans and obaasans (grandpas & grandmas) of Japan. 😊 I had cute and heart-warming stories as well last year – in Yasaka Shrine, Kyoto and Todai-ji, Nara (here).
After finishing, I climbed a long flight of
stairs, which led to a small shrine:
In the middle of climbing the stairs, I noticed a nice spot with maple trees basking under the rays of the sun.
Trying to find the best angle…
Paid respect to the shrine at the top of the hill then started going down to catch the special bus going straight to Korankei.
I was waiting for the 14:01 direct bus to
Korankei and I was lucky to meet three locals who were volunteers helping tourists
in Obara. One of them can speak in relatively good English so she confirmed the
bus schedule.
Being in Japan, everything was supposedly
on time but all of us were wondering why the bus had not yet arrived even if it
was 14:10 already. The volunteers started asking locals nearby and one of them
even called someone on the phone. Apparently, that Friday was a holiday so the bus schedule is
different from normal weekdays.
Plan B was to take the 14:37 bus going to Obara Fureai and from there, take the last shuttle going to Korankei. They apologized a few times but I told them not to mind it since Korankei was my last stop for that day anyway. What was more important for me was to see the autumn night illumination.
The volunteers eventually placed a note on this bus stop that the sched for that day is for holiday/weekends
Retro-looking bus from Senmi Shikizakura no Sato to Obara Fureai Park – free ride here!
The Toyota Tourism website (click here) provided an accurate bus schedule for those who were in interested in going to Obara and Korankei in 2018.
Once the bus arrived at 14:37, we rode it
and I was surprised to know that it was a free bus. Yay! Story on my short stay
in Obara Fureai Park will be on the next post. 😊
It’s the continuation of the Kimi no Na wa seichi junrei (聖地巡礼 – anime pilgrimage) in Gifu Prefecture – but this time in the town of Hida-Furukawa.
Just in the area of HIDA-FURUKAWA STATION, I was already able to capture 3 shots similar to Kimi no Na wa frames!
It’s the continuation of the Kimi no Na wa seichi junrei (聖地巡礼 – anime pilgrimage) in Gifu Prefecture – but this time in the town of Hida-Furukawa.
NOVEMBER 21, 2018
Touchdown Hida-Furukawa Station!
Just in the area of HIDA-FURUKAWA STATION, I was already able to capture 3 shots similar to Kimi no Na wa frames:
No train was passing by at the time though…
Then from the train station, it was a 5-minute walk to HIDA CITY LIBRARY. I showed an image of the Kimi no Na wa poster to one of the librarians and she gave me an ID pass. Picture taking was not allowed and complete silence must be observed. Not surprising though that the area for Kimi no Na wa fan dedication was already gone during this visit as it has been 2 years already since it premiered.
Look who I met in the library again!
Next stop was SAKURA BUSSANKAN/GIFT SHOP where they sell various Kimi no Na wa souvenirs such as the container similar to kuchikamizake and Taki’s bracelet. They also offer a 30-minute kumihimo braiding lesson so that you can craft your own bracelet. Fee ranges from ¥500 to ¥1,500, depending on the type of bracelet. I wanted to try it but I was too shy to ask. 😦
Kuchikamizake (but cleanly processed and prepared!)
My happy face after going around Hida-Furukawa
Since there was nothing to do anymore and there was still more than 2 hours before the train back to Nagoya, I decided to go to one of the recommended GOHEI MOCHI places in the tourist map. Gohei mochi is a sticky white rice cake coated in miso sauce and has this grilled/smoky taste. It is a featured snack in Kimi no Na wa as seen in this frame with Taki, Tsukasa, and Okudera:
Apparently, gohei mochi is a popular snack in the region because I saw lots of stalls offering this in the other areas I visited in Chubu region. Didn’t enjoy this so much though… After an hour, it was time to go to KETA WAKAMIYA SHRINE, the last stop in this Kimi no Na wa seichi junrei. It was about a 30-minute walk and I didn’t see any mode of public transpo in the area.
These kids were walking in the same direction and I got surprised when they turned around to say “konnichiwa!”. So kawaii!
Finally reached the shrine!
Still had about an hour left before the train arrives so it was a deliberately slow walk to take in all the sights of this small town before I leave.
Good thing there was a waiting area in the train station because by the time I got there, the temperature was already 5C. There were also vendo machines which had hot tea so I was saved.
Back in Nagoya Station, dinner was supposed to be in a mazesoba restaurant because they had gyoza but the line was still long even if it was already past 9PM. Settled for this restaurant which serves oyakodon, one of the famous Nagoya-meshi. I got this set which had oyakodon + soup + kushikatsu with miso sauce. I also ordered my favorite Japan alcoholic drink – chu-hi. I chose the yuzu flavor since I hadn’t tried it yet.
Everything was yummy and the serving size for oyakodon was
big that I had to force myself to finish it. I am not sure if I understood it
correctly that the restaurant uses Nagoya cochin for their chicken dishes – a
premium chicken breed which has a flavorful meat than the usual.
Before heading back to the hotel, we passed by Club Sega and I saw one of the UFO machines containing Nyanko-sensei pillows (from Natsume Yuujinchou). Ugh, if only I had good skills or at least a really good luck.
NYANKO-SENSEI!
Anyway, that’s it for Gifu prefecture and the Kimi no Na wa pilgrimage. Kyoto adventure will be up next!
After braving the strong wind, we finally saw the famous MEOTO IWA (“Wedded Rocks”). It is said that the larger rock represents the husband while the smaller one is the wife, and this couple is actually a representation of Izanagi and Izanami, the gods who created Japan.
It may not look as majestic as the ones in photos seen online, but they say that the best time to go here is during high tide and sunrise – get to see the sun rising between the two rocks.
Continuation of our Ise-Shima adventure!
After lunch in Ebiya, we went back to the Ujiyamada Station to go to Meoto Iwa. When we arrived at the Futamino-Ura Station, we could really feel the rural life. There was no machine for us to insert our ticket as we headed towards the exit. Instead, there was an old man who checked our ticket. After exiting the station, there was no vehicle even on the main road. It was a good thing there was a local who we could ask for directions going to Meoto Iwa. He only spoke Japanese but his directions using his hands (even including Y gesture to signal the fork road) were very clear.
Different types of Yakult
Can we have this in PH please???
We walked for about 20 minutes before we finally arrived by the seaside. I was expecting to enjoy the scenery but the wind was really strong… strong enough to pull up my hoodie!
We went inside Futamiokitama Shrine, which is generously decorated with frogs of different sizes.
Ema with Meoto Iwa design
After braving the strong wind, we finally saw the famous MEOTO IWA (“Wedded Rocks”). It is said that the larger rock represents the husband while the smaller one is the wife, and this couple is actually a representation of Izanagi and Izanami, the gods who created Japan.
It may not look as majestic as the ones in photos seen online, but they say that the best time to go here is during high tide and sunrise – get to see the sun rising between the two rocks. These rocks, connected by Shimenawa rope (Shinto sacred rope), are also considered as a symbol of marriage.
If you are into drainspotting, do not miss the manhole cover in this area which showcases Meoto Iwa.
Drainspotting: sunrise at Meoto Iwa
Only saw this map when we were headed back — shows the route from train station to Meoto Iwa
When we got back in Ujiyamada Station, we had to purchase tickets back to Osaka. We did not purchase this beforehand since we were not sure what time we will finish our adventure in Ise-Shima. We somehow regretted it because ticket price per person was around 2,000 or 3,000+ yen. We also made a mistake of boarding the wrong train (1 minute earlier than ours!!) so we had to pay an extra fee.
The train is called Premium Express Shimakaze. It definitely looked and felt premium than the train we rode in the morning – reclining chair, automated window blinds… We even got a boarding certificate to commemorate our ride.
Lesson learned: Japanese trains arrive on the dot unless they announce otherwise. Who would have thought that that train which arrived 1 minute earlier is indeed different from the one we should have boarded. Oh well.
For our last dinner during this trip, we decided to go to HONKE SHIBATO, a restaurant famous for its eel dishes. The restaurant is 300+ years old so their quality is definitely something to be trusted. If you are on a budget, definitely skip this place then. We both got the Osaka Mamushi, which costs ¥2,730 per order. It was my first time to eat eel and their unagi definitely did not disappoint.
Even the cover looks premium!
Close up shot of that delicious unagi!
The staff was really nice and they even offered to take our picture outside the shop. 🙂
Last day trip outside Osaka before we head back to MNL. Our destination is Ise-Shima, mainly because I want to go to Ise Jingu which is dedicated to the sun goddess, Amaterasu. Hence, it is considered as the holiest Shinto shrine in Japan. I read before that locals wish to visit this place at least once before they die.
January weekends were quite busy so I only had the time today to finally post the first half of our Ise-Shima day trip! Here you go…
MARCH 15, 2017
Last day trip outside Osaka before we head back to MNL. Our destination is Ise-Shima, mainly because I want to go to Ise Jingu which is dedicated to the sun goddess, Amaterasu. Hence, it is considered as the holiest Shinto shrine in Japan. I read before that locals wish to visit this place at least once before they die.
I bought our train tickets back in Manila by going to the English website of Kintetsu Japan. Got our Limited Express train ticket for ¥2,640 (2 pax) so we had an early train to catch for this day. The trip was about an hour.
Upon arriving at Ujiyamada Station, we looked for a bus that would take us to GEKU (OUTER SHRINE) of Ise Jingu. It is relatively smaller than Naiku (inner shrine) but nonetheless, a tranquil and breathtaking place. Geku is dedicated to Toyouke Omikami, deity of three essentials of human life: cloth, food and shelter”.
Further exploring Geku, I saw a couple going up these stairs and eventually found myself in front of a small shrine. Paid respect before leaving for Naiku…
From Geku, we rode a bus that would take us to Naiku. They said that another option is to walk but that would be too long and it us usually done for pilgrims.
Upon reaching NAIKU (INNER SHRINE), we were greeted by this first torii framing Ujibashi bridge.
Fun fact: Ujibashi bridge is rebuilt every 20 years as part of the Shikinen Sengu. The most recent Shikinen Sengu happened in 2013. All shrine buildings and main bridges in Ise Jingu are rebuilt every 20 years, and they source their wood from the trees grown within the shrine grounds. Through rebuilding, it is said that the power of the deity is renewed.
From the bridge, it was quite a long walk before we reach the area to do temizu. Notice how people only walk along the side and not stepping on the center area. If I remember correctly what our Tokyo tour guide said, this is because the center aisle can only be walked by their deities. It was easy to spot tourists because some kept on walking on the center part.
We reached the area where you could do the usual way of doing temizu but I could not pass up the opportunity to try the traditional way…
Here by the riverbed of the Isuzugawa, you can directly soak your hands in the water and rinse your mouth. Temizu is a must whenever entering shrines and temples as it is said that the gods loathe impurity; hence, the need to cleanse the mind and body through this method.
A little bit of walk from here and I saw the prayer hall, where I bought two types of omamori (Japanese amulet that provides luck or protection) for myself and one for our home.
Naiku is definitely bigger than Geku and the place does not feel like the usual shrine. Think of Meiji Jingu but a lot bigger and with longer walks from one spot to another. I definitely enjoyed walking slowly and taking in the sights here.
We finally reached the Shogu, the main palace. This is the area dedicated to Amaterasu-Omikami, Shinto’s most venerated deity, and her sacred mirror is believed to be enshrined inside. Most people are not allowed to enter here but donors and bigtime people are given special exemptions. Locals still pay their respect by bowing and praying.
After retracing our steps back to the entrance, we walked a bit more and reached OKAGE YOKOCHO. I read that this is part of Oharaimachi, the traditional approach to Naiku. The place is a recreation of how towns looked like from Edo to Meiji period.
An interesting thing here is “tabearuki” (食べ歩き), which means that food/local delicacies can be eaten while walking around the area. This is a big deal because in Japan, eating while walking is considered taboo and disrespectful.
Lobster croquette
With real lobster bits!
Did not like this 😦
Butasute (meat croquette)
We also passed by this shop which had a long line so we decided to join and see what the fuss is about. Apparently, they were lining up for this mochi-like product made of red beans. There was no English product callout or explanation so I am not sure what it is… But when I took a bite of it when I got home, I understood why. Not a fan of adzuki but this one did not have the overpowering bean taste plus it was not too sticky.
Some more exploration in the area and we found a shop that was selling fried chicken as street food. We bought one serving and we were blown away by the taste. I could not remember though the name of the place. 😦
We made sure that we were able to go around the whole area before we decided to get lunch… I realized that the only activity we did in Okage Yokocho was to eat. Oops! We went inside this restaurant called EBIYA (ebi means shrimp) because we were attracted by their menu outside the restaurant.
We both got the tekonezushi set meal, which included a huge piece of raw abalone. I have always been curious on how it tastes especially after seeing abalone in different Korean variety shows. Proof of its freshness was when I squeezed the lemon over it, the meat-like stuff wriggled for a long time!
Meal set J and I got
Raw abalone (gumagalaw pa!!)
Tekonezushi is also known as “fisherman’s sushi/meal” as it is believed that this originated from a meal that fishermen made while out in the sea. It is a local delicacy in Ise which consists of marinated red-meat fish (usually tuna or skipjack), vinegared rice, and garnish. In our case, we were served tuna with Japanese pickles.
Tekonezushi
Next half of our adventure in Ise-Shima is in the next post. 😊
NARA KOEN was our first destination but we were confused where to get off (while on the bus) so we chose a random stop. Apparently, the park was huuuge and all of the places we wanted to visit were all there. We looked for a quiet spot first to eat breakfast – and away from the deer!
MARCH 13, 2017
Another daytrip that we did from Osaka was to visit Nara. Our train ride was about an hour and a half, which gave us enough time to sleep because we woke up early.
NARA KOEN was our first destination but we were confused where to get off (while on the bus) so we chose a random stop. Apparently, the park was huuuge and all of the places we wanted to visit were all there. We looked for a quiet spot first to eat breakfast – and away from the deer!
After filling our tummies, we went to KOFUKU-JI (UNESCO) and we had free access to the temple grounds. Its five-story pagoda was an amazing sight and considered to be the second tallest in Japan.
We were unable to view Central Golden Hall (the main hall) because it was undergoing renovation. We decided to just explore the other parts of the temple grounds instead.
Since we did not have a lot of stops in our itinerary, J suggested we visit NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM. It was also raining so it would be good for us to seek shelter for the meantime. Taking pictures was not allowed inside but it was worth the visit. The extensive history of Buddhism can be found there as well as A LOT of Buddha and Buddhist-related statues. We also visited a portion that was dedicated to Omizutori, which was our last item for the Nara itinerary.
Near the museum, we saw an old lady selling sweet potatoes per gram. We bought 500g and we were surprised how big it was. Even if the three of us shared it, we were not able to finish eating it.
One deer spotted us with the sweet potato and it followed us even when we crossed the road. We ended up hiding in a shrine but we could see the deer looking for us. LOL.
Seeing and interacting with deer was the activity we were all looking forward to. But, I was initially scared especially when we encountered them in groups. We saw a local who threw bits of crackers and the deer nearby went wiiild – I even saw a few jumping over rocks while rushing towards the food.
I followed my cousin’s advice on how to feed deer with lesser chance of experiencing them being aggressive:
Be careful when buying food in the deer cracker hotspot – areas with many vendors who are all selling deer crackers. Better to look for another place with less vendors as fewer deer are hanging out there. (We were able to buy ours in a store near the road – it was the only store at that spot)
Do NOT let the deer catch you buying their food! Put the crackers inside the bag right away. They are smart enough to see that you bought crackers and where you put it. Once they see you, they will not stop bugging you to give them food.
Most of the deer roaming around the park can be too aggressive especially when it comes to their food. Those that are inside temples are more docile and they kind of act like a hippogriff – when you bow to them, they’ll bow to you. Some already bow once they see you. We felt that it would be cold of us not to give them food so we ended up giving most of the crackers to deer inside temples.
Fun fact: Deer is the symbol of Nara and it is regarded as the messenger of the gods. Nara’s deer mascot is called Shikamaru-kun – and this made me realize one of the famous characters in Naruto named “Nara Shikamaru”. Cool!
The walk to our next destination was quite long but it was a pleasant one. It took us about 20 minutes of walking along a path covered in trees before we reached KASUGA TAISHA.
This is the most important Shinto shrine in Nara, and it is famous for the donated lanterns decorating a portion of the shrine. These are only lit during evenings of Lantern festivals in Nara. Similar to Kofuku-ji, the grounds do not have any entrance fee.
We spotted a few deer here and they were hiding near the stone lanterns.
Inside the hall, we saw the lanterns with intricate designs as well as ema which included deer-shaped ones.
Since we still had time to kill before the Omizutori, we ate late lunch and checked out the line of stalls near Todai-ji.
Our last stop in Nara was TODAI-JI (UNESCO), a famous Buddhist temple founded thousands of years ago. We were not able to explore this since we arrived during closing time. It was a bit of a bummer though as I wanted to visit the Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall – Main Hall) – largest wooden building with the largest bronze Buddha statue in Japan.
But, we did not felt that bad because the main reason why we visited was attend the Omizutori. The ceremony was held at Nigatsudo Hall, which also gave a good view of the city. We were lucky enough to be able to climb the steps going up the hall but we were eventually asked to leave as the locals prepare for Omizutori. OMIZUTORI is one of the oldest festivals in Japan as it started in 752 AD. It is done as a way to cleanse sins and welcome spring. They say that March 12 and 14 are the best days to watch the ceremony – longest on the 12th (45 minutes), shortest on the 14th (5 minutes) but more spectacular as torches are lit all at once.
Even before sunset, there were already a lot of locals in the temple grounds. Wouldn’t be surprised if there were more than a thousand people there.
Funny story: we realized we came unprepared when we saw almost everyone were sitting on the ground with a plastic or cloth that they can use as a mat. There was still about an hour of waiting because Omizutori would only start at 7PM. I had scratch bond papers inside my bag and brought it out to use. But, an old lady took pity on us and gave us her extra big disposable plastic mat. (Arigatou obasan!) Made us love Japan and its people even more! ❤
The ceremony started on time and seeing this 1250-year old tradition in real life was surreal. Series of torches were lit one at a time and on occasions, the torch holder would shower sparks over the crowd. It lasted for about 30 minutes and everyone was focused in this ceremony.
I wish I could post the videos but the file sizes are too big. 😦
After Omizutori and making our way out of the crowded place, we decided to have dinner in Osaka. Automatic choice was to go to Dotonbori and just choose whichever we wanted to try. We went to DARUMA, which is famous for its kushikatsu (deep fried skewered meat/vegetable) and has been in the business since 1929. We were lucky because there was no line and we were able to get a table right away. Our table (2nd floor) was also next to the window which provided a view of Tonbori River.
We initially wanted to order 2 sets but because there were 3 of us, that would mean that for every type of kushikatsu, one of us would not get to taste it. And so, we decided to just get one set each. I think the staff could not help but stare at us because 1 set has 12 kushikatsu sticks. But, we were hungry plus we did not know when we could get to eat again there. J and I ordered oyster too because a deep fried one sounded yummy.
Our orders did not disappoint! Definitely not for health-conscious people but come on, the oil probably helped in making the kushikatsu delicious. :p
Note that they do not allow double dipping for hygienic purposes. You are only allowed to dunk each kushikatsu in the sauce only once. If you still want more sauce, you use the piece of cabbage (provided for free) to scoop more sauce. I also read in some posts that eating the cabbage helps in digestion.
After dinner, we explored Dotonbori some more and after seeing J enjoying her Cremia ice cream before, I had to buy one. My sister always told me that it is fun to eat ice cream during cold season but the idea is weird to me. So after trying this during this trip, I finally understand what she meant. What I like about eating ice cream during winter is that I do not have to worry that my ice cream would easily melt and drip everywhere. Haha!
That’s it for Nara. Next stop is USJ (and WWOHP)!!!
We started our 4th day in Kyoto a bit later than the previous days since our first stop was just a few minutes away (walk) from our Airbnb – NIJO CASTLE (UNESCO)!
While walking along one side of the Nijo Castle, we realized how huge the castle ground was since it took us a few minutes to finish walking just one side. The huge stone walls looked imposing and surrounded by moat. At the time of our visit, the original entrance gate was under renovation so the entry point to the castle was different.
MARCH 9, 2017
We started our 4th day in Kyoto a bit later than the previous days since our first stop was just a few minutes away (walk) from our Airbnb – NIJO CASTLE (UNESCO)!
While walking along one side of the Nijo Castle, we realized how huge the castle ground was since it took us a few minutes to finish walking just one side. The huge stone walls looked imposing and surrounded by moat. At the time of our visit, the original entrance gate was under renovation so the entry point to the castle was different.
We paid ¥600 to get access to the castle grounds, and our first stop was the Ninomaru Palace, with the Karamon Gate as entrance. For me, this was best part of the castle because of the “nightingale floors”, a term used for the squeaking floors which resemble the bird’s sound. We read inside the palace that this served as a defense mechanism back then as it alerts the people inside the castle on presence of intruders.
Another thing we loved inside Ninomaru Palace were the artworks inside. Each part of the palace had a different theme for decorations – from walls to ceilings and fusuma-e. The most striking themes there were the tora (tiger), peony, bamboo, and simple drawing (in black ink only).
Too bad we were not allowed to take pictures and videos inside… so I highly recommend this to people and go see for yourself.
While walking to the next part of the castle, M spotted a sign that leads to another area. Surprise, surprise – a garden of ume (plum blossom) trees! Unlike the ume garden in Kitano Tenmangu, we got inside this one for free.
We went to Honmaru Palace afterwards but we were not able to enter since this is not regularly open to the public. We still strolled around the garden and we found an overlooking spot that had a good view of the moat and surrounding residential area.
After a bit of rest, we headed for our next destination. We thought that the first shrine we encountered was already the place but it turned out to be KAWAI-JINJA. What I found distinct in this shrine was the ema used – mirror-shaped + must draw face + write down request to be more beautiful! The god in this shrine specializes in women’s beauty, hence this concept.
Our actual destination, SHIMOGAMO-JINJA (Lower Kamo Shrine; UNESCO), was not far from here. It is considered by some to be one of the most beautiful shrines in Japan, which I agree with. It is also said to be one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan.
The walk going to the entrance was a bit long but we took our time since the view was really nice. We were surrounded by trees, and everything was just peaceful and quiet.
Inside the shrine, I easily spotted the Takiobashi bridge. It was beautiful especially since there were some ume that had already bloomed.
Another interesting thing I saw in this shrine was how the locals were dipping a piece of paper in a small stream of water. Not sure if what they were checking out was an omikuji. The contents are only available in Japanese so we did not try doing this anymore.
After going around the shrine, we went to NISHIKI ICHIBA since we had not yet eaten lunch and it was already past 2PM. The bus stop where we were waiting was quite confusing but we were lucky that there was a local who could understand English.
Nishiki Market is also popularly known “Kyoto’s Kitchen”. It is the largest traditional food market in Kyoto and it is a really long alley lined with mostly food stalls. Other stalls sell souvenirs and fresh ingredients (including meat and seafood).
We tried a lot of food here but I’ll let the pictures and captions do the storytelling. 🙂
Oily but yummy!!!
Lily bulb with tofu skin and shrimp
Sashimi sticks
Salmon sashimi stick
Tuna sashimi stick
Super sweet strawberries!!!
Making of tofu doughnuts
Tofu doughnuts
Kawaii tofu doughnuts
Dashimaki tamago
Spot the tako tamago!
Fresh seafood
I wanted to try tako tamago (baby octopus with quail egg inside) but I found out it is served cold so I passed on this. I also thought of buying matcha warabimochi but the line was long and I was already too full by the time I saw the stall.
We went home after eating to get some rest before our 9PM reservation in YAKITORI HITOMI. I found the place through some blog posts, who highly recommended it as a casual yakitori place that makes of almost every part of a chicken. The place is popular among locals and tourists so I had to ask help from our Airbnb host on reservation.
However, when we went inside, it seemed like they forgot about the reservation. Good thing though that there was a free table so we did not have to wait for long. Pictures and captions below show what we ordered. Also, the owner and staff were apologetic about our reservation to the point that the person serving our table kept on saying “sorry” and “gomenasai” every time he would go to our area. The owner also gave us free food – 1 stick of chicken meat with perilla and 1 stick of wings per person.
Almost every part of a chicken can be ordered
Tsukune (chicken meatballs) — one of the best dishes we ordered! Got sold out fast!!!
Freebie – Chicken meat with perilla leaf
Freebie – Chicken wings
Duck meat — soooooo good!!!!!
Chicken skin — sinful but really, really yummy!!!
Forgot what this is but tasted delicious too
Burnt rice which was surprisingly good T_T
We were the last customers to leave so we had a bit of conversation with the owner. This also gave us the opportunity to personally give our compliment to the chef/owner. All of the food we ordered tasted really great! What a great way to cap off our last night in Kyoto. 🙂
Another early start for us since our first stop for our 3rd day in Kyoto was in FUSHIMI INARI TAISHA and we wanted to avoid the crowd. The place is well-known for its senbon torii (thousands of torii) spread across an entire mountain. The whole hike usually takes 2-3 hours according to those who have already experienced doing it. This Shinto shrine is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, with foxes as the messengers.
MARCH 8, 2017
Another early start for us since our first stop for our 3rd day in Kyoto was in FUSHIMI INARI TAISHA and we wanted to avoid the crowd. The place is well-known for its senbon torii (thousands of torii) spread across an entire mountain. The whole hike usually takes 2-3 hours according to those who have already experienced doing it. This Shinto shrine is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, with foxes as the messengers.
There are two lines that can take you to Fushimi Inari Taisha – the nearest one to the location is the JR Line. We rode this one and right after exiting the station, we can already see this big orange torii.
Upon entering, we passed by the main prayer hall. We saw a map and a few signs that pointed to the start of the famous line of orange torii. A few minutes of walking and we finally saw it! There were only a few visitors around at that time so we were able to enjoy walking slowly along the torii-lined pathway.
We only reached a third of the hike when we decided to go back. It was too cold already and we had not yet eaten breakfast so we knew that we were not going to last the hike.
By the time we reached the area with the main hall, there was a huge crowd already due to students on a field trip.
We decided to exit via the road with food stalls so that we could also buy breakfast. Unfortunately, they were still closed – most likely since it was still early. We looked for the nearest convenience store and bought the usual: onigiri, sandwich, hot tea and coffee. There were no seats inside the store so we went back to Fushimi. Luckily, when we got there, the food stalls were already opened. I wanted to try the yakisoba but the serving size was too big! I ended up buying karaage shared with my friends. Might be weird to eat something that heavy for breakfast but it was really crispy and delicious!
TOFUKU-JI was our next stop, which is a place famous for maple leaf viewing. Unfortunately, most of the trees were bare since it was still early March. We only visited the Sanmon Gate (oldest Zen gate) and Hondo (main hall) since these were free. Access to Tsutenkyo Bridge and the gardens have corresponding charges. Our trip here was just short.
We headed to Ginkaku-ji although we had a hard time getting a cab from the station we got off. Not sure why there were very few cabs in the area since it did not look like a rural part. We finally got a cab and I was a bit surprised that the driver was a lady. She spoke good English and we saw that there was a “Foreign Friendly Taxi” sign inside her car – though the fare was more expensive than the usual. She toured us a bit by pointing interesting places we passed by such as the road to Nanzen-ji and an expensive restaurant with really good food.
We had to walk going to Ginkaku-ji since vehicles are not allowed anymore at some point. But before entering, we tried mini cream puffs from GENMAI – vanilla, matcha, and sakura flavors. Not sure what to feel about the sakura flavor – it was okay but it tasted like vanilla with pink food coloring.
As we had more energy to do activities again, we headed to GINKAKU-JI, another UNESCO site in Kyoto.
It is also known as the “Silver Pavilion” – similar to Kinkaku-ji without the gold colors on the structure. Near the pavilion is the Dry Sand Garden, which has this massive sand cone named Kogetsudai (Moon Viewing Platform). I took a panorama picture with my phone but the quality was crappy as usual.
We were able to easily follow the path since it was just straightforward and there was a big crowd anyway in front of us. We passed by the main hall, Sengetsusen Waterfall (although it was not a huge one), moss garden, and the overlooking spot which gave us a breathtaking view of this side of Kyoto.
Before our DIY tour ended, we got another glimpse of the Silver Pavilion but this time seeing the back side.
The street that would take you to Ginkaku-ji reminded me of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka because of the various shops along the sides – food, souvenirs, etc. We were looking for Omen to have our late lunch and we were relieved to find out that it was just a few minutes away on foot.
OMEN is popular for its handmade udon and since the weather was cold, we opted for the hot version. We got the set meal which included appetizers we did not know – everything tasted okay except for the green vegetable with a small slice of raw fish. It was too bitter! J and I also got an additional order of sabazushi – too big to eat in just one bite but it tasted really good! Definitely recommend getting this one.
Omen recommends experimenting with the four spices on the table when eating their udon. However, I recommend eating first the udon without any of these so that you can get compare more precisely which you prefer. There is also a brochure with English instructions on each table, and each spice has an English name so you kind of know what you’re putting in your dish.
We headed to GION afterwards. Since it was mid-afternoon, there were only a few people around. We were not hoping to see real geisha or maiko at that time but we encountered three women who dressed up like them.
We went back to our Airbnb early again as we were too tired to go around. I’m curious how Gion looks like at night so I will surely be back here. Shirakawa area might also be at its best during spring season because of the willow trees lining it (+ Shirakawa Canal). I also want to do the Kurama-Kibune hike so I think that’s another reason to go back to Kyoto? 🙂
We started our 2nd day in Kyoto quite early since our goal was to get to the famous bamboo grove without the big crowd yet.
I finally understood what people meant when they said that photographs were not enough to do justice on how ethereal and beautiful SAGANO BAMBOO GROVE is. Highly recommend to go here really early! Aside from us, there was just a tourist couple so we managed to get good pictures of the place. The place was also quiet which made it perfect for a bit of reflection and relaxation time.
MARCH 7, 2017
We started our 2nd day in Kyoto quite early since our goal was to get to the famous bamboo grove without the big crowd yet. When we got off in Arashiyama Station, there was a sign which exit was for the bamboo grove but we were not sure how to get there by walking. It also started raining so the temperature became too cold to handle (at least for me).
We ended up taking a cab so that we would not risk getting lost – short ride and the driver dropped us near the entrance. The first hundred meters of the bamboo grove got us thinking why people described SAGANO BAMBOO GROVE as majestic because there were electric posts + wires blocking part of the view.
We still walked some more and stumbled upon NONOMIYA-JINJA, which is a shrine dedicated to Amaterasu and the deity of fire.
After spending a few minutes here, we decided to continue our walk along the bamboo grove but we were surprised that it was quite short. We were at the back area of Tenryu-ji and we could not find any more bamboo. We decided to walk some more and finally, we saw the bamboo area captured in most photographs.
I finally understood what people meant when they said that photographs were not enough to do justice on how ethereal and beautiful this place is. Highly recommend to go here really early! Aside from us, there was just a tourist couple so we managed to get good pictures of the place. The place was also quiet which made it perfect for a bit of reflection and relaxation time.
At the end of the path, visitors can also go to OKOCHI SANSO VILLA. Since it was too early and too cold to wait, we retraced our steps to reach the city area. We grabbed some breakfast from Lawson – onigiri, sandwich, hot coffee and tea. We were lucky that it was very near to TOGETSUKYO BRIDGE and there were vacant benches. We ate our breakfast with the bridge and Katsura River in sight.
After eating, we crossed the bridge and explored the park on one side. On the other side, we got a closer and better view of the river. There were also boats offering a cruise along the river, but I think this would be best enjoyed during the spring and fall season. Trees were still bare at the time we visited.
We wanted to buy some local sweets in Arashiyama and we decided to get help in Arashiyama Randen Station. Another surprising discovery we made here was the KIMONO FOREST. A short pathway was lined with cylinder-shaped pillars, which were designed in different colors and patterns. I read a bit more about the place afterwards (read here), and people highly recommend going here during the evening as well as the pillar are lit up.
At the end of the path, we saw a small pond with a sphere designed with a dragon. There was a small sign near the pond that said that if one dips their hands into the water, s/he will feel refreshed and will be blessed with happiness. My hands were too cold already so I did not do this but J and M went ahead since they felt they could still withstand the temperature.
We walked to TENRYU-JI (UNESCO) afterwards and bought tickets for both the garden and buildings in the area.
It is the largest temple in Arashiyama and said to be one of the best Zen temples in Kyoto. Not a surprise because the place is beautiful, and there is a spot in the main hall where one can sit and admire the garden and pond outside.
Before heading back to Kyoto Station, we bought tickets for the SAGANO SCENIC RAILWAY. We were lucky because we only had to wait a few minutes before the special train arrives. The next schedule after ours was an hour later.
We hopped on the retro-looking train when it arrived (seat numbers are assigned upon buying the ticket). It was past 1PM already and since we had not yet eaten lunch, I ate the daifuku I bought from a stall near the bamboo grove entrance.
Flavors (L-R): adzuki, ???, matcha
The ride lasted for about 25 minutes – we passed by scenic views of mountains as well as a good view of the Hozugawa River.
We only bought a one-way ticket so upon arrival at the last station, we walked going to Umahori so that we could catch a train ride back to Kyoto Station. We had our very late lunch in KYOTO RAMEN KOJI, located at the 10F Kyoto Station .
There are 10 ramen shops to choose from and this “street” (koji) boasts of housing shops that serve ramen from different parts of Japan (check out the list of ramen shops here).
Since we had different ramen preferences at that time, we decided to go our separate ways for lunch and meet at the entrance of Kyoto Ramen Koji after eating. I chose HAKATA IKKOUSHA because I was super hungry and I saw that their ramen has huge pork slices. Yay! Securing a seat was not a problem since it was still off-peak hours.
Their hakata ramen tasted really, really good that I finished the whole bowl by myself. This was on top of my additional order of karaage (which I also enjoyed BTW!).
After lunch, J recommended going to Kitano Tenmangu as she saw IG posts that a lot of ume trees there are already in full bloom. We somehow gave up already in seeing sakura so we decided to go there.
KITANO TENMANGU is a shrine dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, a scholar and politician during the Heian period who is also best known as the “god of academics”. Hence, this is also a shrine where many students visit to pray for their studies and exams.
We also went to the garden of ume trees (with entrance fee but forgot how much), and it did not disappoint at all! I’ll let the pictures below do the talking. 😉
We went home afterwards and bought convenience store food for dinner. Guess we had not yet recovered from the 30,000 steps we did the day before this.
On our first day of tour, we left early for Kiyomizu-dera to avoid the big crowd. We hopped off at Gojo-zaka bus station and it was still a long walk before reaching the majestic gate to KIYOMIZU-DERA (UNESCO). There were no visitors yet when we reached the place, and it was a wondrous feeling to take in all the calmness and serenity.
MARCH 5-6, 2017
We purchased our tickets to Osaka (KIX) via Cebu Pacific last year, and we were lucky enough to catch a seat sale (Php 7,500 for RT ticket per person).
Our flight to KIX was a bit delayed but we still arrived in KIX around 8PM (flight lasted for about 4 hours). Since we were not sure if there were any restaurants near our Kyoto Airbnb, we decided to eat in KIX before leaving. We chose SUKIYA which is popular for their gyudon but there were also a lot of other dining options in the same area. After eating, we bought ICOCA cards at the JR office then proceeded to the bus terminal for our airport limousine bus tickets to Kyoto (¥2,550 per ticket).
The trip was about 2 hours and we hopped off at Kyoto Station (JR side). I read about a Foreign Friendly Taxi in Kyoto Station (read more here)… But, we could not find the terminal for this so we opted for the regular cab. Good thing Shu, our Airbnb host, sent us a PDF file which included the Japanese address and a map screenshot of the Airbnb’s location. Our taxi driver did not have any problem finding it.
While we did not meet Shu, he was really accommodating of our requests. He helped us book a reservation in Yakitori Hitomi and even allowed us to store our luggage beyond check-out time. We highly recommend staying in Shu’s Airbnb:
Clean unit + working heater
Walking distance: Nijo Station and bus stations (IMO, bus is the better way of going around Kyoto)
Walking distance: Nijo Castle
Free pocket Wi-Fi
Convenience store in the same building (ideal for breakfast needs)
On our first day of tour, we left early for Kiyomizu-dera to avoid the big crowd. We hopped off at Gojo-zaka bus station and it was still a long walk before reaching the majestic gate to KIYOMIZU-DERA (UNESCO). There were no visitors yet when we reached the place, and it was a wondrous feeling to take in all the calmness and serenity.
Kiyomizu-dera is best known for its wooden terrace where people can have a good view of the surrounding trees and of Kyoto. Unfortunately, the roof of the main hall is currently undergoing renovation so it is difficult to get a good view.
A little bit of walk and we saw the gate to JISHU-JINJA, a shrine dedicated for love and matchmaking. They also sell different types of enmusubi omamori – for single people who are looking for love, stronger relationship, good marriage, etc.
The shrine is also popular for two stones called “love fortune telling”. Stones are placed a few meters apart and you have to walk from one stone to the other with your eyes closed. If successful, your love-related wish will come true. If not, it is said that it will take a long time before it is fulfilled.
Start from this stone…
…going to this stone
Another highlight was the OTOWA WATERFALL – water streams divided into three. We got a long pole with cup to get and drink water from the streams. But, it is advised not to drink from all three because this is considered to be greedy. Each stream provides a benefit and facing from inside the falls, from left to right, the benefits are: academic achievement, success in love, and longevity.
(L-R): longevity, success in love, academic achievement
We headed out of Kiyomizu-dera to explore SANNENZAKA and NINENZAKA. Both streets are lined with traditional-looking establishments, which made us feel like we were walking along ancient Kyoto. I hunted the following stores based on research prior to the trip: Yatsuhashi Cream Puff (matcha cream puff), Malebranche (okoicha langue de chat, cha no ka), and Shichimiya Hompo (shichimi and yuzu powder).
Must-buy in Malebranche!!!!! White chocolate filling in between matcha biscuits ❤
Matcha cream puff
We also passed by a small shop selling strawberries and I knew that I had to buy one… Best decision ever as the strawberries were really sweet!!!
While the walk along Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka took some time, we did not mind because of the quaint vibe. As we went farther away from Kiyomizu-dera, the crowd got thinner so the walk became more pleasant for us.
We were supposed to eat lunch in Izuju Sushi, one of the oldest traditional sushi restaurants in Kyoto, but we were surprised to find out it was closed. There was a nearby restaurant with a long line outside so we opted to join the bandwagon. They say that when locals line up for it, the food is most likely good.
While HACHIDAIME GIHEI has 2 floors, the area per floor is just small. We waited for about an hour and a half before being ushered inside, and it was quite cold outside! I ordered Oyakodon set and added Miyama Komoriuta (free range egg brand) to make a tamago kake gohan – fresh egg placed on top of rice which is very popular in Japan.
Oyakodon
I honestly did not get what the fuss was about although I read reviews that rice was the highlight for this place. The waiting time we spent felt like a waste for me especially since the oyakodon tasted average.
A few meters away from the restaurant, we saw YASAKA-JINJA which was next in our itinerary. Upon entering the gate, there were a lot of food and souvenir stalls. Since we still had some space in our tummies, we bought takoyaki, caramelized fruits, and a big kani stick.
Entrance to Yasaka-jinja
Jumbo kani on a stick
Candied strawberries
Takoyaki
Entrance is free and one of the key highlights in this shrine is the dance stage, which has hundreds of lanterns that are said to be lit during the evening. This place is also known as Gion Shrine and very popular for Gion Matsuri, a summer festival held every July.
We were supposed to get an omikuji but we were told that there is no English translation available. I noticed that there were two kinds of omikuji in this shrine – one for general fortune telling, one specifically for love. I was interested in the latter because I already had the chance to get the general omikuji last year in Meiji-jingu.
Draw a stick – part of the process in getting your omikuji
From Yasaka-jinja, we walked to MARUYAMA-KOEN which was just a few minutes away. The park is very popular during sakura season, especially because of its iconic shidarezakura (weeping cherry tree). Unfortunately, since we were there around early March, it had no flowers yet.
Famous shidarezakura – not yet bloomed
We still enjoyed the place though since there were different corners to explore. We also had the opportunity to see some ikebana displays there.
Our next stop was CHION-IN, where access to temple ground isfree but Hojo and Yuzen gardens require a fee. The Sanmon Gate, which serves as the main entrance, is considered to be the largest wooden gate in Japan.
Sanmon Gate (Chion-in)
Happy kiddos
There are two ways to get to the temple ground – climb steps or ride a shuttle for free. We went for the latter option since we were quite tired already from walking since morning. There were different halls when we arrived but Miedo Hall, the main hall, is closed for renovations until 2019.
Our last stop before dinner was SHOREN-IN, which can be walked from Chion-in. When we reached the area with the payment booth, we decided not to enter for reasons I cannot remember anymore. I’d still recommend the place though because I read that they have kachoden (drawing room with fusuma-e – screen paintings). Additionally, they also have a garden with carp pond which one can admire while sitting on the tatami mats.
After our short stop in Shoren-in, we hopped on a bus going to the dinner place. When we got off, J said that she saw a blossom tree near the river so we hunted for it. True enough, there was one tree which was in full bloom but this turned out to be ume (plum blossom), not sakura. Nevertheless, the flowers were really pretty.
We walked to Kichi Kichi afterwards since we had a reservation and we needed to be on time. KICHI KICHI is famous for its fluffy omurice made by Chef Yukimura Motokichi.
Each of us ordered the half-size omurice since the full size was too big for us. The omelet was indeed fluffy and I liked how the sauce was not too sweet. Overall, it was delicious but I wouldn’t jump into concluding that this is the best out there.
We also ordered Chicken and Cheese Cutlet with Mustard Flavor, which was another good call!
Chef Yukimura Motokichi
Famous omurice (half-size)
Chicken and Cheese Cutlet with Mustard Flavor
Dinner menu
Chef Motokichi really knows how to entertain his customers, and his staff are efficient and friendly. I highly recommend placing a reservation since they can only rarely accommodate walk-in customers.
After our delicious dinner, we went back to Higashiyama area for the HIGASHIYAMA HANATOURO, an annual spring illumination the said district. Popular temples, shrines, and gardens are open in the evening. Shops also extend their working hours to cater to the huge crowd that attend the event.
We were supposed to visit all the temples we went to during this day but we had no more energy. We went back to Kiyomizu-dera and headed to KODAI-JI, which had a colorful lights show in the rock garden. The raked gravel in the garden is said to represent the vast ocean.
We were too tired to commute going back home so we decided to take the taxi (an affordable option if you are 3-4 in a group). Not surprised to find out that we reached almost 30,000 steps from all the walking we did for more than 12 hours. Not bad for our first full day in Kyoto?
Anne Goes to Places